How To Install A Helicoil Oil Pan
Both the Helicoil and Timesert also require drilling and tapping into the oil pan, meaning there will be metal shavings that have a chance to get in the engine. You MAY be OK flushing the crankcase afterwards, but I agree that removing the pan is the best course of action. The answer for us was to install a nut on the seating tool, leaving about 3 threads exposed, then install the insert on the remaining threads of the tool. (put a touch of oil on the tool first) Then install the insert into the drain hole, and tighten the NUT until the insert is flush. Summary: Best recommendation for aluminum oil pan thread repair kit. Aluminum oil pans are used on most BMW’s (as well as many other brands) today to reduce the over-all vehicle weight. However, drain plug threads on BMW aluminum pans are weaker than steel threads. The threads are more likely to wear from oil changes over time.
EDIT
Helpful links on how threads got stripped and by who:
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878261
2004 Ford Taurus SES, DuraTec V6, 115,000 miles
Oil change performed at dealership.
He indicated the oil pan threads are 'almost gone'.
Says this could lead to a very big leak and a small leak over time (I think there is a small leak).
Nevertheless, he says it will cost:
$275 for a new oil pan
$75 for a new gasket
few hours labor, $90/hr
This sounds like a lot.
Questions:
Are there methods to restore the existing threads on this oil pan?
How easy is it to remove the oil pan on this car?
Is it Ok to get these parts from a junk yard?
Any other solutions I am unaware of for this problem?
Also this might be the answer to my older question.
Greg McNultyGreg McNulty2 Answers
Provided the threads are damaged, one could drill out the hole and place a heli-coil thread insert (or similar) into the now-larger hole. Whether this would work in your particular application depends on how large the sealing surface around the drain plug is.
One company markets a threaded bushing to repair oil pan drain plugs that performs a similar function.
If it were my car, I wouldn't want to do this without pulling the oil pan off the engine, to make sure that any metal chips from the drilling operation don't remain in the oil pan, as they could do damage to the engine.
So from a comparative standpoint, either way you need a new oil pan gasket, and either way you'll be paying for the labor of removing and re-installing the oil pan. The heli-coil approach has the additional labor of preparing the hole and installing the heli-coil, plus very likely the minor additional cost of a new (larger) drain plug and gasket.
For my money, I'd go with a replacement oil pan. If you can find a decent salvaged pan and save some money that way, great.
macmacA web search for universal oil drain plugs yielded several results. There are several types. One type is shaped like a mushroom with a wing nut on the top. Insert the stem in the drain hole and tighten the wing nut which expands the stem and seals the hole. Another type has a toggle bolt that is inserted in the drain and an attached rubber cap that covers the hole. As I have no experience with them I would talk to the counter guys at several local auto parts stores and see if the have any recommendations.